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Bittersweet Endings
Waking up in the soft morning light, air thick with the scent of the pines, on a giant island in the sky. A feeling, a momentary state of being, too
Desert on the Ground, Islands in the Sky
Before leaving Kearny, we had another round of showers and shared breakfast at the local diner. The same woman who whisked us into town the night
Southbounding the PCT, Part 5: The Last Words
It's officially SOBO season. The Hart's Pass Snotel plot hit zero last week, the clarion call to those striking out on the path to Mexico. With no
Southbounding the PCT, Part 4: Resupply, Towns, and Trail Angels
It's no secret that the majority of long-distance hikers on the PCT choose a northbound itinerary. Many services along the trail tailor their
The Stunning and Harsh Wilderness of Central Arizona
Exhausted from the previous night, I woke up a bit late. Steel had already left. For a change, the sky was overcast and cool with just a hint of some
Southbounding the PCT, Part Three: Environmental Truths
Environmental factors can have a significant impact on how much you'll enjoy a hike. That's as true of day hikes as it is for thru-hikes. Sometimes
Southbounding the PCT, Part Two: Setting Off
Part 1 For Part Two, I asked fellow SOBOs their start and finish dates, what they liked about the schedule, and what about it was difficult. To
Southbounding the PCT, Part One: Who, How, and Why
"Oh, you're going the opposite way!" O RLY? I can't tell you how much this phrase began to grate on my nerves over the 2,650-mile trip from
Shit Gets Real and Challenges Mount on the AZT
A Slow Restart Tim dropped us back at Sandy Seep, and we continued on the Equestrian Bypass out of Flagstaff. Walnut Canyon was a scenic but
Kaibab to Coconino on Forest Roads
"No food on the bus." Per Bear looked at the bus driver, then down at the remaining half of his Nutella wrap. Then back to the bus driver. Then he